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The Consumers' Association Which? report removed some of the sparkle from mineral water recently, claiming that it is overpriced and over-rated. But we can still have faith in Findlay's finest Scottish water from the Lammermuir Hills because it comes with an academic seal of approval. Its labels include an extract from a report by Ronald Speirs, head of the Scottish Agricultural College's central analytical laboratory: "It is my considered opinion that Presmennan Well, as a source of natural mineral water, has, in my experience, no equal in terms of purity, consistency and taste."